I've always loved eggs, and scrambled eggs in particular. The other day on AFC, I saw a demonstration of the bain marie method of preparing this most delightful incarnation of eggs- rather than throwing the beaten eggs into a pan full of butter and cooking till set over low heat, the bain marie method involves beating the eggs in a bowl and then cooking over a water bath, the very low heat cooking the eggs a lot slower but also ensuring creaminess and very soft set curds.
This, apparently, is the classical French preparation for scrambled eggs and is the best way, in my opinion, to achieve an unctuous texture that lends itself to a number of variations- the textural contrasts work better, even with a last-minute sprinkle of some fleur de sel, the large crystals crunch beautifully against the oozy yellow curds. Today, I decided to finish up the bottle of lumpfish roe (from IKEA, very handy) as an accompaniment to my bowl of scrambled eggs- an egg on egg thing, except with a pleasurable texture because the firm roe that bursts most gratifyingly and saltily when bitten into.
Preparation (serves 1):
1. Bring half a pot of water to a boil. Break 3 eggs into a bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until evenly yellow. Add a splash of good olive oil.
2. Place bowl with eggs over the water and lower heat to simmer. Stir continuously until eggs begin to curdle and the texture is creamy, like porridge. When small curds have formed, add a splash of cream, about 1 tablespoon, and incorporate well. Remove from heat, season with pepper and salt and transfer to a serving bowl. Place a dollop of roe a top and serve immediately with toasted bread.
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